Trek to Colca Canyon

Between Cusco and Machu Picchu and Huaraz and the high peaks, Hollie and I had a week or so to explore and be adventurous. We originally considered going to the rainforest, but prices were a little high and we still didn´t have our yellow fever vaccination. So we decided to head to Arequipa and seek our fortunes there. As soon as we arrived, there were signs (and Peruvians jumping out of tour agencies) lauding the vast and varied attributes and acolades of the Colca Canyon. ´World´s second deepest canyon!´ ´See Andean Condors!´ ´Must do for every traveler!´ So without much hesitation, we began visiting tour companies to check out prices and trips. The first company we went to was recommended in The Lonely Planet and looked pretty good - pretty expensive as well. In the end we went with the fourth company we investigated for less that 1/4 the price of the original.


The bus ride was 5 hours long and I was getting pretty car sick, but I just told myself that it would all be worth it. As soon as we began hiking we realized all the pictures we had been shown were taken on clear days during the rainy season. It wasn´t technically a desert, but it was very deserty. Incredibly dusty with mostly cactus and a few other shrubs growning. Not exactly what we were hoping for, but we were determined to make the best out of it.

Our first night we stayed in a family run hostel on the other side of the canyon. What was impressive about it was that there are no roads and only long, steep, dusty trails to the small village. What was unimpressive was everything else - particularly the food. Hollie and I have been enjoying some fine Peruvian food, even at the budget level. Unfortunately the quality of food on this trek was noticably below anything we had experienced before - mostly rice, potatos, and mystery sauce.




The next day we rose early and hiked to the Oasis. This was really a beautiful spot. You can see it below; near the bottom of the canyon with waterfalls feeding the swimming pools. We finally began to really enjoy our time in the canyon. Above is a picture of us with our group. Nice enough, except that they were from Spain. Unfortunately our guide talked to them mostly in Spanish and gave us the cliff notes in English.

One of my favorite moments of the trek was Hollie´s encounter with an Alpaca. As we got ready to leave the Oasis, Hollie decided to make friends with an innocent looking alpaca. As she approached with soothing calls of ´nice alpaca´ ´nice alpaca,´ all of a sudden the alpaca spit at her!

´How rude!´ thought Hollie...and spit right back!







On our last morning we drove to the ´Cruz del Condor´(Condor Cross) in hopes of catching a close up glimpse of that largest of Andean carrion birds. The cross was positioned on a spectacular point beyond which the canyon dropped near vertically for over 3,000 ft. We were the first group to arrive (7:30am), so there were just a few of us standing there shivering in the early morning sun. After 15 minutes of gazing into the canyon (and still shivering) we spotted our first condor. It was still quite a distance away but looked magnificent. Just 5 minutes later and several more appeared. They gave us a great show, flying within 30 ft or so. My picutes aren´t the best, but below you can see those that were most in focus.


















In the end we have decided to remember our trek to the Colca Canyon with fond memories. One more day in Arequipa - White Water Rafting - and then off to the Cordillera Blanca.

Our last day in Cusco

Cristo Blanco overlooks the entire city of Cusco. Hollie and I decided to take a taxi up to check him out and the surrounding ruins. Afterward we walked back down to the city.
This picture is proof that we are always leaving room for the Holy Spirit between us!


Hanging out at the local ruins, Saqsaywamán (pronounced ´sexy woman´).
Back at our favorite restaraunt, Inka Fe.

Machu Picchu

When we signed up for our trek to Machu Picchu, we were told that we had the option to hike up to Machu Picchu with our guide early enough in the morning to be the first ones there instead of taking the bus up the mountain, but the night before we were to go, our guide said he wouldn´t hike up with us! We were really frustrated, so a group of us decided to hike up on our own with a pathetic map that our guide drew for us and our torches (headlamps). So we were up at 3:30 am, navigating our way through the dark jungle up a steep mountain side.

This is the mountain side we hiked up, starting from the town we stayed overnight in, Aguas Calientes, which you can´t see in this picture, its a bit to the left in the valley.
We found our way there without too many problems in about 1 1/2 hours. We were indeed the very first ones in line to be admitted at 6 am when the gates opened. It was magical getting there and seeing it without any people inside. We took roughly one million pictures of it in the first hour.




Our guide gave us an hour long tour of the ruins, but we could hardly understand his English, so we didn´t catch much of what he said. We did understand that he was trying to tell us what animals different stones supposedly looked like, but it was really a stretch to see some of them. Some people think Machu Picchu was an Inka University, but that is up for debate. We might have to read a book later to understand more of the history of Machu Picchu since we didn´t get much of it from the tour.




We hiked up Waynu Picchu, which is the dramatic mountain top that you see in our first pictures of Machu Picchu on the other side of the ruins. It is a very steep hike on narrow stone steps. The view from the top is incredible, especially of the surrounding mountains. The pictures from up top were not quite as good though.









The weather was bipolar while we were there. It was clear early in the morning, then rained for a while, then a thick mist settled in over all the mountains for a while. Then later it cleared up and was super hot and sunny!

We felt just like this llama at the end of the day. After 3 days of trekking at insane altitudes and then an early morning hike up the mountain, and then our afternoon hike up Waynu Picchu, we were completely wiped out. We both slept for 12 hours that night.

We spent the next day in Aguas Calientes just relaxing, eating good food and writing postcards.

That evening we took the slowest train ever back to Cusco. Cusco and our little hostel in San Blas almost feel like home, it was nice to return.

Our next stop is Arequipa, where the world´s deepest canyons are, as well as snow covered volcanos!

Lares Valley Trek

Hollie and I booked our trek to Machu Picchu a little too late and missed out on hundreds of people walking in a line and overcrowded campsites along the Inca Trail. So instead we went on the slightly easier hike through the Lares Valley.


Most of the trek was hiking between 3,500 meters and 4,400 meters (11,500 ft and 14,000 ft). As you can see, it was mostly high, arid Andean Mountains. There were many lakes and rivers that dotted the valleys.

Our group was pretty fun. Most signed up for this trek because it was supposed to be easier than the Inca Trail. There were 11 of us and we were the only 2 who didn´t hire a porter to carry their things. We stood out a bit with our large backpacks amidst 9 others with small day packs. It was fine though and by the end we were all good friends.



The above is a picture of our lunch stop on the first day. Although there are blue skies here, most of the trek was overcast. As you can see it was pretty cold most of the time. I guess thats the way it goes hiking around 13,000 ft a week before winter solstice. Below is our first campsite. When we arrive we were completely socked in by clouds. As we sorted our things and the sun began to set, the clouds parted... and lo and behold there was mountain (spanish name that I forgot) rising to over 6,400 meters (over 19,000 feet) peering down on us. It was spectacular and the pictures of the peak itself were great except the unavoidable telephone poles in the way.

The telephone poles and electricity went to a very small village that we visited the next morning. We were welcomed inside one of the homes. The two pictures above are both inside with the mother making yarn from wool and at least a dozen guinea pigs running around on the floor. While this house had electricity, most families that we visited later didn´t. The rural people here are all farmers and sheperds. Each family group grows potatoes and has both llamas and sheep. Families at lower elevations will grow grains like quinoa (keen-wa), and those at still lower, corn. Most of the families at these elevations speak only Quechuan and live just like the Inkas have for many centuries. Our guide generally referred to them as Inkas.

This little girl belonged to the first family we met. We thought she was very cute. In the last two pictures she is eating a banana. We brought gifts to give to the children such as bananas, oranges, candy, and school supplies. They live quite remotely and were very thankful (and a little snatchy) for the small things we brought them.

We encountered many other familes along the way. Often we would be hiking and all of a sudden someone would see two or three bright orange and red specks moving across the valley at a rapid pace. The specks would swerve or jump when they came to a boulder or stream. A few minutes later the specks had grown larger and we could just make out quickly moving legs and wildly flailingly arms. Seconds later a few children would be standing in front of us with enthusiastic faces and loud ¨Hola´s¨. Many were very photogenic. Above are a few of our favorite pictures.

Our group consisted of 4 Irish, 2 Swedes, 2 Canadian Italians, 1 Aussie, and the two of us. Here we are freezing in a cloud at a pass at 14,000 ft. Our guides (Caesar and Salvo) were very enthusiastic and usually fun to be around.

Each day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner we would gather in the (much warmer) mealtime tent. The food was pretty good (unfortunately no guinea pig) and always too much.

Overall the trek was great. One of our favorite parts about it was interaction with the Quechuan families and children. The day after these photos were taken we headed up to Machu Picchu.